Restaurants

The restaurant at Clerkenwell’s foremost boutique hotel (a converted warehouse) is appropriately stylish: a lofty, airy space of subtle dark woods and deep maroons, giant hanging lampshades, splashes of vaguely Miró-inspired paintwork and floor-to-ceiling windows. The result is comfortable rather than affected. Zetter is open all day every day, and so makes a relaxing spot for local loft-living singles to sit back over the papers at weekends, or network more intensively midweek. Service is charming as well as sharp, and the mainly Mediterranean, monthly changing menus have a lively, inventive style strong on flavour. Celeriac and pear soup with crème fraîche was a lovely, delicate blend, while an impressively fresh salad was made special by delicious roasted squash – a simple touch very well carried off. Linguini with rabbit confit and pesto was less distinctive, but still offered plenty to enjoy. The wine list is ambitious, with high-quality (and pricey) bottles as wines of the month. For breakfast or weekend brunches you can head back home with substantial full english or veggie brekkies, brunch classics, bagels, juices and smoothies. There’s also a retro-plush cocktail bar, making Zetter a very complete package.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009