Restaurants

Martin Dewey’s small chain has expanded from its origins in a van at Spitalfields Market to Canary Wharf and Selfridges: the sort of locale where traditional pie and mash shops wouldn’t last five minutes. Square Pie’s pies are relatively cheap and filling, with good mushy peas and decent Maris Piper mash made with skins included. The pies come in two sizes with a choice of fillings: from the traditional steak and ale or chicken and mushroom, to the more imaginative. Our pie of the month contained lumps of chicken, salty parma ham and bits of lemon, as well as a nice big bay leaf. Very satisfying. Other treats include sausage rolls made with chorizo and, for the sweet of tooth, apple and cherry pies. The frontage of the revamped Spitalfields outlet doffs its cap to days of yore – appropriate given the mix of old and new recipes you'll find inside.

Time Out editors