Restaurants

By Charmaine Mok

Is it an art gallery? Is it a brasserie? Is it both? Yes. Is it exciting? Not really. For one, a few paintings hung on the walls does not a gallery make and, second, the theatrical flair forced upon the menu (side dishes are 'sponsors' and desserts 'encore') feels gimmicky and out of place.

On paper, it promised to be a hot ticket. It was created by Enzo and Robert Scalzo, the men behind the Pâtisserie Valerie chain, and is situated in a beautiful Grade II-listed building, offering all-day Modern European dining with the addition of some eye-candy in the form of British art. Yet the reality is disappointing.

With Magic 105.4 FM blaring out of the radio and incredibly camp Italian waiters, it's hard to take this place seriously – especially when the latter, while charming, can’t seem to take a cue. (We were pestered three times to order, then couldn’t get their attention when we were ready.)

Still, it's unpretentious at best and our 'preview' (starter) of smoked duck carpaccio with rocket and raspberry vinaigrette was outstanding, the slivers of intensely flavoured duck breast a fitting match for the peppery rocket and sweet-sour tang of raspberry. The mains, however, were a let down – 'ultimate' salmon and crab fish cakes with a lobster bisque sauce were mainly mashed potato and embarrassingly outshone by the supporting cast, a well-dressed (or should that be costumed?) herb salad. Pistachio-crusted pork fillet was dry and paired jarringly with an over-sweetened apple cider sauce; both were pantomines of potentially sell-out dishes.

We can’t decide what Da Scalzo wants to be, but it had better get its act together. Or else, in these times, it will amount to nothing more than a tragedy.

Time Out London Issue 2004: January 15-21 2009