Restaurants

A visit here feels like a trip to see old family friends. Aphrodite is run by Brazilian Rosana and her Greek-Cypriot husband. If open to banter, you might get to meet three generations of the clan. The premises are charmingly haphazard; this is a red-cushioned, copper-potted, caricature-walled sort of place that feels unabashedly chintzy – in carefree contrast to the street’s manicured environs. The menu is extensive and includes an excellent house French wine. Greek salad, huge juicy green olives, and fasólia made an impeccable start to our meal. Houmous and taramosaláta weren’t exceptional, though the fluffy Paphitiko-style (from Paphos) pitta bread provided for hearty olive-oil dipping. Partnering a gently roasted golden-yellow Cyprus potato, sheftaliá were aromatic, though the cinnamon should have been less of a dominant flavour. The succulent skewered monkfish (a house speciality) had a slightly sweet flavour and pleasingly firm springy texture. The food is wholesome and attentively prepared, but best of all there’s no pressure from the owners if you try nothing more than the occasional loukoúmi, sip coffee, and toss around backgammon pieces.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008