Restaurants

This light-filled, white-painted room above the Design Museum remains one of the best places to dine beside the river. Tables by the (often open) windows are at a premium, but there isn’t really a duff spot in the spacious modern room as all tables have City skyline, if not actual water, views. Best dishes on a rather chilly night were just-right brisket with beetroot and horseradish cream, and a delicious, chunky hare pie, both served in generous portions. Starters of baked salsify with parmesan, and smoked eel sandwich with red onion pickle, were pleasing too. A final warming came from poached winter fruits with crème fraîche and pine nuts. The menu, under long-serving head chef Jeremy Lee, changes regularly; more summery dishes might be feta, tomato, mint and black olive crumbs followed by whole grilled bream with warm potato salad, with lemon posset and blueberries to finish. A wide-ranging wine list has plenty by the glass, and there’s advice on hand if you need it. Solicitous service made for a relaxed evening; there’s no relentless turning of tables here. Good to see a long-standing restaurant not resting on its laurels.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009