Restaurants

Opening two Spanish restaurants directly opposite each other, in London, might sound daft, but try telling that to the owners of Tendido Cero and partner restaurant Cambio de Tercio , both of which seem to be full of customers most nights. Key to this double success is the restaurants’ contrasting remits: Cambio de Tercio is for fine dining, while Tendido Cero, on the whole, specialises in more traditional tapas. Though more casual than its big brother, it’s designed along the same smart lines, with a colour scheme of black, dark red and mustard yellow. The menu runs to standards like patatas bravas and padrón peppers, as well as more unusual options. The undisputed highlight of our recent selection was baby eels on toast with aïoli. Each square of bread had vanished beneath a tangle of delicious meat; these had been crowned by a dollop of fresh, garlicky mayonnaise, then briefly set under the grill. In comparison, a couple of other choices (bland strips of chicken breast in oil and paprika, dry pork medallions) were underwhelming. However, other favourable elements – a buzzy and convivial atmosphere, knowledgeable service, a good wine list – helped make up for the little disappointments.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008