Restaurants

Sister restaurant to the equally successful Cambio de Tercio across the road , Tendido Cero is less gastronomically ambitious, offering traditional tapas with the odd flourish. Yet we reckon it occupies the superior venue: a simpler-shaped room (also decorated in atmospheric black and yellow) with a bar running along one side and a semi-open kitchen. It’s a fairly formal restaurant, but has a buzzier, more appealing atmosphere. Since our last visit, a two-sitting system has been introduced – irritating, but a testament to the place’s popularity. It’s worth booking ahead to enjoy dishes that offer originality and quality way above average. Baby eels are heaped on slices of baguette with aïoli, then grilled so the aïoli just sets. Sobrasada sausage is rolled up with pieces of burgos cheese in tiny flutes of fine pastry, which are deep-fried and drizzled with honey. Old favourites are produced with class too; simple fried calamares were perfect. We also indulged in a superb dessert: three little squares of a rich layered orange chocolate cake. Our only gripe is that the wine list offers little choice below £20, but that’s par for the course in this neighbourhood.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009