Restaurants

The unimaginative name and nondescript decor may hint at a similar laziness in the kitchen, but in this case, appearances could not be more deceptive. This canteen-like eaterie serves authentic, first-rate Thai and Laotian food at fair prices. The menu, like the surroundings, does not pretend to offer anything highbrow; yet the staples it serves are faultlessly rendered. A well-balanced tom yum came with a generous portion of prawns that were not overcooked a refreshing rarity. Chargrilled marinated beef wrapped in betel leaves was fragrant, tender and juicy, while the red duck curry was among the best weve tried in London: daringly rich, creamy and sweet without being cloying. Most impressive was the pork laab: the minced meat was roughly chopped and flash boiled, giving each tender bite extra heft. Its marinade boasted a perfect balance of sour, salty and sweet flavours, enhanced by the unmistakeable perfumes of fresh galangal, coriander and thai basil. Two minor complaints: dishes were given liberal lashings of MSG and tossed with red onions rather than shallots. Still, that wont stop us heading back for more.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008