Restaurants

Kai aims to show off the breadth of China’s culinary possibilities, and the depth of customers’ pockets. Extravagantly named dishes (‘parcels of prosperity’ are prawn and vegetable dumplings), at extravagant prices (£108 for shark’s fin and abalone soup), are served to diners who scream wealth, in a dining room that whispers luxury. The menu combines classic dishes (peking duck, sweet and sour pork) and unconventional ingredients (wasabi prawns, stir-fried ostrich with three chillies) with mixed success. A signature dish of braised peking chicken boasted remarkably soft slices of chicken breast in a lovely ginger stock reduction, but was marred by an over-zealous squeeze of lemon. Ostrich with three chillies was perfectly cooked and intensely spiced, but tasted as if saturated with MSG. Beancurd and vegetable chai chang sah, however, was faultless: lively flavours, delicate textures. Staff attempted to be solicitous, but didn’t quite succeed. A glass of corked white wine was graciously replaced – by an equally corked substitute. Still, given the quality and variety of the food, this is an experience worth repeating – assuming you’ve got a generous expense account.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008