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You need to book at Eighty-Six, as tables fill up early with families and later with more leisurely diners. The adventurous menu is certainly appealing. Cold starters include gravlax with brandy and honey marinade, aubergine grilled with tahina, and two delicious slices of rare roast beef. Less usual meats such as veal also feature, along with a sumptuous calvados foie gras (sadly, often unavailable as kosher goose liver is hard to source). Main courses include grilled poussin or chicken breast stuffed with mushrooms, courgette and smoked goose breast; duck, however, was disappointing, served with an oversweet sauce. Vegetables (sweet pepper, garlicky mushrooms or grilled tomatoes) may arrive cold on the plate, but the chips are perfect. Main course prices can be on the high side, although less expensive options abound, from spaghetti bolognese to gourmet burgers. Theres not much for vegetarians, but fish eaters should check if the salmon or sea bass is available. Portions are large; if you dont have room for a slab of chocolate cake or pear tart for afters, linger instead over a glass of wine, served by a charming French waiter.
Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008
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