Restaurants

With the captivating Rex Whistler mural, In Pursuit of Rare Meats, around its walls, the restaurant next to Tate Britain’s cavernous café presents an inviting prospect. But the ugly false ceiling, waiter station and slightly inept service (two of our courses were carried past us and offered to other diners) give it an institutional air. While the clientele look distinguished (at one table was a group from the Royal Academy), the food is less so. The menu’s ingredients are well-chosen, but inconsistent execution let them down. Devilled kidneys on sourdough toast were nicely piquant with mustard. An anaemic leek and pea quiche was improved by a purple and green cress salad. But green tagliatelle with griddled artichokes, fennel and lemon was unforgivably overcooked and oily – costly, too, as the vegetarian choice on a set price menu. Still, the desserts shone. Chilled rice pudding with blueberry compote in a little kilner jar, and a buttery almond sponge with gooseberries and an elderflower sorbet were English summer heaven. The British cheese trolley is enticing and the wine list another redeeming feature.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009