Restaurants

In 1968, when Fish Central opened, this corner of the city was hardly residential and the chippie took a unit in the shopping precinct. Now it spans four units – rather stylishly, with etched glass and pale tones of white and mint – and attracts an enthusiastic stream of locals: from media and financial bigwigs to students and residents of the nearby estates. Aside from chargrilled swordfish with paella, and new-season English lamb steaks, Fish Central’s raison d’être is simple fish and seafood. Whole grilled Cornish plaice was crossed off the specials board as we arrived, but there was still deep-fried hake with tartare sauce to supplement the cod, haddock, plaice, skate and rock salmon that are the core of the printed menu. Italian white and red kick off the drinks list at £9.95; there’s also draught IPA and Stella. Desserts are homely yet adventurous: fruit salad coming with banana leaf and mango sorbet, no less. Our bread and butter pudding had a great texture, but needed more fruit. The first-floor room is a good setting for parties and functions, for which the kitchen produces an impressive range of canapés.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009