Restaurants

An offshoot of Nick Jones Soho House (theres a members club and hotel upstairs), this is a slick and seductive operation that wouldnt look out of place in central London, Paris or New York. Its a good-looking (if noisy) space, with dark wood furniture, green banquettes, and a dove-grey awning over the pavement tables; the colourful, multi-patterned ceramic floor tiles are particularly striking. The classic brasserie menu caters for all appetites, at all hours. It covers everything from seafood (oysters, seafood platters) to sandwiches, burgers and grilled fare (ribeye, chateaubriand), plus regular starters, mains and desserts. You could drop in for breakfast or for cocktails. The food didnt quite live up to the promise of the menu; its good but not flawless. Potted shrimps were excellent (buttery, creamy, packed with flavour), as was a summery chicken casserole with baby turnips, carrots, peas, broad beans and potatoes. However, a main of skate was overcooked, and the accompanying salad was dreary. The shallot vinegar to go with good-quality oysters came in a bottle, which made it almost impossible to use. The wine list is appealing, though theres not much choice by the glass. Impeccable service from staff dressed in long white aprons and black waistcoats, and a buzzing atmosphere compensated; the attraction here is more about generosity of spirit than perfect, finicky food.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008