Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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Time Out says
Mon Jan 28 2013
By Susan Low
You’ll need good orienteering skills to find this new café. Ring the buzzer, take the lift to the second floor, then stumble up an unmarked back staircase. If you’re lucky, you’ll emerge into a café that’s all clean lines and pale wood, like an Ikea self-assembly pack. (Take the phone number – if you get lost, the friendly staff can send out a search party.)
The Exchange is an ‘incubator’ that provides office space and business expertise to start-ups. The café is its de facto canteen, but is open to the public too, and also serves dinner on Thursdays and Fridays.
The open-plan kitchen is run by Australian chef Magnus Reid, who has put together a short but modish daily-changing menu. Wines, from the same suppliers used by Brawn and Terroirs, are well chosen and sensibly priced; bread is from the excellent Paul Rhodes Bakery.
A starter of pear and Berkswell cheese soup was creamy-textured, sweet and earthy. The flavour combos worked well enough in main courses of crunchy potato cake topped with a portobello mushroom and poached duck egg, and in the lamb cutlets with smoked aubergine, even if both dishes played it safe. But the bread and butter pudding lacked the airiness we craved.
The large outdoor terrace will come into its own in summer, and will doubtless become the café’s main attraction.
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