RSJ can appear to occupy a world of its own beside the artsy agglomeration and traffic of the South Bank. Its mellow cosiness seems more akin to somewhere much further upriver: Chiswick, say, or even Henley-on-Thames. The style and softly coloured decor haven’t changed for a while, but this is probably how regulars (who rely on the restaurant for relaxed lunches and pre- or post-theatre dinners) like it. Food consistently displays high levels of skill and refinement in preparation and the sourcing of seasonal ingredients. From the excellent-value all-day set menu, a ham hock terrine with piccalilli was lovely, earthily textured and subtly flavoured without a hint of excess acidity; pan-roasted chicken supreme with olive oil mash was not so outstanding, yet still very pleasant. Splash out a bit more on the carte and you really see what the kitchen can do, in dishes such as the fresh fish of the day, or a distinguished côte de boeuf. Another special feature is the unique, fabulous wine list, one truly worth exploring. Drawn almost entirely from the Loire Valley, much of it sourced directly from producers, it has been assembled with expert discrimination; prices, by current standards, are a gift.