Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
User ratings:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
Rate this
Time Out says
Wed Oct 17 2012
Terroirs positions itself as an evangelist for natural wines, but is equally valued for the quality of its informal French cooking and its buzzy atmosphere. Gastronomes, the wine trade and in-the-know pre-theatre diners fill the split-level bistro-style space. That the wine list is 27 pages long and the menu is written on a table mat doesn’t reflect the priorities here.
The dozen or so small plates, plus cheese and charcuterie and main-course specials, offer good options for both hunger- and thirst-driven customers. They’re generally well made, but on our latest visit, some disappointed. The beetroot served with goat’s curd and walnuts was tasteless, and clams and garlic undercooked. Potted shrimp on toast, wild garlic soup and an £8 steak tartare were good enough to compensate.
The wines, sourced from small traditional, creative and experimental natural producers in primarily France and Italy, are a joy, and the wine of the month is reliably fascinating (amphora-aged, for example). Our only complaint is that with just 15 available by the glass, smaller parties don’t get to sample the wide variety. Staff are bright and engaged, but there can be delays at busy times.
Comments & ratings