The Bingham

Time Out says

Thu Oct 25 2012

This boutique hotel occupies two Georgian houses overlooking the towpath just beyond Richmond Bridge, and is a charming spot in which to take temporary respite from the urban grind. The two dining rooms are serene; elegant but unshowy, with polished wood tables, modern chandeliers and gold tones, and french windows above the pretty garden. There are tables on the balcony too, while next door huge mirrors dominate the art deco-ish bar, decorated in shades of grey-silver.

Assorted menus are available, from afternoon tea to dinner, with both à la carte and tasting menus, but the best value for money is offered by the set lunch. Choice is limited – just two options per course, and no luxe ingredients – but it’s enough to get a feel for the skills of head chef Shay Cooper and his team.

English pea and lemon verbena soup, served with an oozing slow-cooked duck egg and a sprinkling of edible flowers and herb sprigs, was a delicate, summery start. Of the mains, Cornish sea bream with sautéed squid was outclassed by a rich, flavour-packed risotto of roast garlic and girolles, with tiny globules of muscat vinegar contrasting with smooth, subtle belper knolle cheese. To finish, creamy passionfruit curd matched perfectly with zingy grapefruit sorbet and tiny chunks of citrus fruit, though the sprinkling of meringue pieces added little in terms of flavour. The colours – yellow curd, pink sorbet, white meringue – dazzled too.

The young staff were charm personified: attentive and relaxed.