Food that goes beyond the usual hackneyed take on British - including wickedly good puddings - at very reasonable prices for the area and the quality.
From a distance, with its white wooden cladding and high pitched roof, this restaurant does look suspiciously like a shed. Home for years to the old Ark restaurant, under brothers Oliver and Richard Gladwin it’s had a playful makeover that’s as much barnyard as back-garden, with piggy portraits, bits of tractor, and charming staff in check shirts. It’s a fitting setting for the food, which goes beyond the usual hackneyed take on British. Plates are small, meant for sharing, and divided into sections such as ‘mouthfuls’, ‘fast cooking’ and ‘slow cooking’. The menu changes regularly; many ingredients are sourced from in or around the family farm in Nutbourne, West Sussex (including wine from Nutbourne Vineyards). From fresh-tasting carrot houmous with sourdough breadsticks, to the meaty goodness of the Nutbourne banger with own-made mustard, it was all delicious, and inventive without being tricksy. Hake with samphire, capers and a slick of red pepper sauce was possibly our favourite plate, though spatchcock quail with cucumber, poppy seed and a delicate barbecue sauce ran it close. Only a slightly too salty, overly fatty veal blade with haricot beans and black cabbage disappointed. Puddings are wickedly good – their ‘Magnum vienetta parfait’ is a reinvention of the old standard (with added salted caramel and dark, dark chocolate) that has to be tried. We’ll be back – especially as prices are so very reasonable for the area and the quality.