Tierra Peru
Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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Time Out says
Thu Mar 29 2012
Peru’s diverse cuisine shares similarities with its Andean neighbours. But the London interpretation of Peruvian food escapes the cheap-and-cheerful pigeonholing that, say, Mexican and Brazilian restaurants are subject to.
Along with Soho’s Ceviche restaurant, Tierra Peru aims for a contemporary sophistication beyond the ‘ethnic’ ghetto. Its layout is shop-front standard – long and narrow. But good lighting, attractive wall art, black furniture and creative crockery smarten the style, as do the staff's black uniforms. A dish of delicate, spicy puffed maize kernels served on arrival signals the restaurant’s intention to do upscale; a short list of formally made and served cocktails, including a pisco sour and an algarrobina (made from carob juice) confirmed it, as well as eliciting a relaxed vibe from the mixed clientele.
The menu lists mainly traditional dishes from across the country. Key ingredients are chillies, potatoes and other starchy roots, fish and seafood, rice and various types of corn. Marinades, herbs and sweet-sour spicing provide complexity. The ceviche got the texture and tang mix just right, and a tamalito starter shamed the Mexican version. Ostensibly simple mains of carapulcra (Andean: based on sun-dried potatoes, peanuts and rice) and majarisco (coastal: mashed plantain with seafood) both looked like garnished mounds of mush but tasted great.
Dental advice: don’t order dessert if you value your teeth – most are very sweet, if delicious.
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