Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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Time Out says
Fri Oct 19 2012
The cosy dark wood-panelled interior and sepia prints hark back to Victorian London but Toff’s isn’t quite that old: it was founded by Greek-Cypriot Andrea Toffali in 1968 and remains undisputed king of the Muswell Hill dining scene.
Battered fish is the staple – egg and matzo costs an additional 75p, grilled is £1 extra. Salad garnish comes as standard, and there’s an offer to replenish the already generous portions of chips. The groundnut oil is changed nightly and given to farmers for recycling – a key factor in the superior flavour. We appreciated having alternatives to fish such as chicken and sausage for fussy kids.
The wine list isn’t as lively or extensive as it could be – surprising given the middle-class ’hood. Opt instead for a Becks or Keo beer. The ground floor restaurant is a little cramped but the tone is cheerfully unpretentious; there’s upstairs seating amid similar decor when things are especially busy, but it does feel remote. Better to enjoy the bustling takeaway queue and cooks’ banter.
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