Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>2/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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Time Out says
Tue Dec 15 2009
The tumultuous southern end of Green Lanes makes a great location for an Italian deli, though the restaurant element to this operation works less well. A picture window and an outside eating area let diners see the delights of the Newington Green gyratory; inside, the long deli counter has pride of place, and the sparse and functional tables allow a widescreen view of blue lino. The menu of basic pasta and pizza choices is similarly uninspired, although every dish we tried did have a mitigating factor: bruschetta with dried basil but cheery cherry tomatoes; overcooked orecchiette with matching broccoli that nevertheless made judicious use of garlic and chilli; and florentine pizza that might have lacked pzazz, but had a nice crispy base. There’s no feel of a particular region here, which allows the wine list to prowl across Italy; the selection is better than you might expect, with several choices of each colour by the glass. Staff were under-employed on our visit, and were shielded from diners’ demands by the giant deli counter. Nevertheless, service was competent, if less than warm.
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