Gaining its first Michelin star in 2012, Trishna London is a world away from the shabby interior of its sister restaurant in Mumbai. This contemporary-looking eaterie is smart and quietly conservative, its dining room barely distinguishable from those of its Marylebone neighbours save for the retro Air India prints on the walls.
The Mumbai original is known for its focus on seafood, but here equal prominence is given to meat and vegetarian dishes. An Indian twist on a British classic, Trishna fish and chips was let down by under-seasoned fish, but a main-course sized starter of a typical Indian snack, aloo chat (a sweet and sour blend of potato, chickpeas, tamarind, yoghurt, shallots and chilli), was the best dish by far.
To follow, guinea fowl ‘tikka’ was tender and smothered in a rich marinade of yoghurt, fennel and star anise with a gentle kick of chilli. For pudding, perfectly crisp, dinky sweet filo parcels styled as ‘samosas’ gave way to a nutty coconut and mango filling, accompanied by a feather-light lychee ice-cream. Portion sizes overcame us, but staff happily packed up leftovers to take home. The early-evening menu is fantastic value at £25 for four courses.