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The Piccadilly side of Mayfair is not the most convivial part of London, which makes a trip to El Pirata all the more pleasurable. Warm and welcoming, with a menu that is stridently traditional and (mostly) fairly priced, it's like a little piece of pre-gastro London. The interior is noisy but pleasantly low-lit, while a pavement table gets you a view on to a street with a ghost tube station entrance (Down Street, closed since 1932) and a church.
Six or seven tapas will satisfy even a ravenous duo. Crisply grilled sardines, moist ham and pungent morcilla were generous, tasty dishes, but the lentil stew deserves special mention. Rich, smoky and chocolatey, it was a late-in-the-order tapa we wished we'd chosen earlier - and twice. Padrón peppers also tempted, but cost more than a fiver, which would buy you a bag's worth in Spain. Bread (which we had to request) was decent, though the pan con tomate lacked zing.
Our waiter's wine recommendation - a bottle of 2008 Hito from the ever-popular Duero region - didn't quite deliver the body or bouquet we expected for £30. Finish with crema catalana, rice pudding or chocolate pancake - not the lightest desserts, but good to share.
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What is 'following'?020 7491 3810
Meals served noon-11.30pm Mon-Fri. Dinner served 6-11.30pm Sat
Main courses £13.95-£17.95. Tapas £1.90-£10.50. Set lunch (noon-3pm) £10.25 2 dishes incl glass of wine. Set meal £16.35 6 dishes
Credit cards AmEx, MC, V
Facilities
Tables outdoors ( 4, pavement ), Babies and children admitted, Booking advisable ( dinner ), Separate room for parties ( seats 65 ), Takeaway service
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