Iznik

Half a borough away from the hubbub of Hackney's rougher-hewn, charcoal-fuelled Turkish scene, Highbury's Iznik emits a pretty glow of lamplight and vibrant paint shades at night. Flavours come not from the grill, but the oven, and slower cooking creates some unusual and subtly complex tastes.

In sebzeli sarma, chicken, hand-chopped into a kind of sausage, is flavoured with dill, wrapped in aubergine and courgette to keep it succulent, baked in a tomato sauce, then served on puréed potato with a fresh, contrasting crunch of pomegranate seeds. Karniyarik, melting aubergine baked with herby minced lamb, is another winner. Though painstakingly prepared, meze, especially peynirli börek (cheesy filo parcels), can be salty. That's feta for you.

Though there are grills for the meat-minded, Iznik also has vegetarian main courses that are better than the meze. Taratorlu kabak is a skewer of courgette and apple, grilled and served with a nutty, cheesy, herby sauce.

Under the turquoise ceiling there's decorative clutter and appreciative clatter from a local clientele. Note that the wooden benches aren't as comfortable as embroidery seat covers make them look. Eat enough of the notable puddings, such as semolina cake with thick cream and fruit, and in time you'll provide your own padding.