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Chez Bruce

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2 Bellevue Road, SW17 7EG Full details & map

Restaurant: European

 

Time Out says   7 Users say 3/5 Rate it

Posted: Sep 30 2011

Lauded by nearly every guide, critic, website and diner, chef Bruce Poole's restaurant offers a wine list and cooking that is among London's very best. Pitched firmly at the City bonus and special anniversary crowd, the atmosphere is hushed, the prices high. But once you get past the shock of finding a Mayfair restaurant overlooking Wandsworth Common, the sybaritic pleasures reel you in. The bright colours of some dishes evoke the Mediterranean, such as a starter of yellow tagliatelle with broad beans and amber girolles. With others it's the flavours that have most impact, such as a dun-hued courgette soup with the sharp, oxalic tang of sorrel, topped with the crunch of fresh croutons.

Both fish and meat cookery show mastery of timing, with a firm fillet of plaice near-translucent, and roast rump of lamb pink and very tender. Little details and add-ons consistently impress; the neatly carved lamb came with a faultless caponata, perfectly crisp, Greek-style boureki glazed with thyme honey, and a tiny lamb meatball in a sweet jus. There's no carte, just set menus, which makes it hard to resist the desserts; one of the lighter options might be a simple strawberry jelly, set in a glass with a black pepper tuile and yoghurt sorbet.

Some unusually imaginative wines are available by the glass; try a violet-scented zweigelt red from Austria, or a white Terlaner from the Italian Tyrol, with its tropical fruit nose. Of course, there's also a huge fine wines list, at prices that would cover the annual insurance of one of the Audis or BMWs parked nearby.

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Chez Bruce details

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Address

Chez Bruce

2 Bellevue Road SW17 7EG

Transport Wandsworth Common rail

Telephone

020 8672 0114

Chez Bruce website

Lunch served noon-2pm Mon-Fri; noon-2.30pm Sat, Sun. Dinner served 6.30-9.45pm Mon-Thur; 6.30-10pm Fri, Sat; 7-9pm Sun

Set lunch (Mon-Fri) £27.50 3 courses; (Sat, Sun) £35 3 courses. Set dinner £45 3 courses

Credit cards AmEx, DC, MC, V

Facilities

Babies and children welcome ( lunch: high chairs ), Booking essential, Separate room for parties ( seats 16 ), Available for hire, Disabled ( toilet )

Chez Bruce map

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Comments & ratings 3/5 (Average of 7 ratings)

By louise - Feb 29 2012
1/5

The food was over-rich and in the case of the oxtail starter, downright oily. The one star is for the excellent blood orange sorbet. The broccoli with my main course was overcooked and soggy. When I complained I was told I was wrong, and that Bruce had tasted it and it was as it should be. While this may have been right, as the customer I don't expect to be addressed in a patronising tone (by the restaurant manager) and would have appreciated a straightforward apology and some new broccoli. Surprisingly they docked a pudding off the bill, but with no explanation connecting it to the complaint. I got the distinct impression they were not going to admit they had made a mistake. I feel ithe biggest mistake is for a Michelin chef to tell me soggy broccoli is 'as it should be' - crikey, hasn't he heard of 'al dente?' I think this restaurant really needs to think about their customer service, particularly the rather condescending manner of the manager. We were taken aback by the lack of warmth and welcome in a restaurant of that apparent calibre. That, and the fact that a Michelin chef thinks soggy broccoli is acceptable, means I won't be going again.

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By zuiji - Jan 28 2012

so-so ... like some of the reviews below ... go to Soif on Battersea rise ... food, ambience and amazing wines (including the wine-by-the-glass) and well priced

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By Richard - Dec 14 2011
3/5

As it was my thirtieth birthday it was definitely a time to call on the big guns. Apart from the fantastic service I found the whole experience a tad average. My first course of scallops with a cauliflower puree was exceptional but my main course of bream was a little basic and the 'Mont Blanc' desert was a set of flavours that didn't quite work together. If you are after the tried and tested French style evening then I can think of no better place but if you regard modern cuisine to have moved on in leaps and bounds in the last tens years (like I do) then London is packed full of other restaurants for you. P.S. just wanted to say once again how good the service was, the sommelier that I encountered (obviously different to one in a different review) was very informative and the waiters were efficient and friendly.

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Daniele Turi
By Daniele - Nov 28 2011
3/5

Excellent and surprisingly warm service and Time Out description spot on as usual, but not my kind of food. Rather go to Galvin bistro de luxe or Zucca.

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By James - Sep 22 2011
5/5

Excellent food, a wide ranging wine list and fantastic service. Andy must of been particularly unlucky - as we had three delicious courses each, a unique Austrian white and all for a very reasonable £160.
Would recommend whole heartedly.

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By Charles - Sep 3 2011
4/5

Very good food, excellent wines and unobtrusive service! I received what I had expected from this gem of a restaurant over looking wandsworth common. A good meal, although the cheese board was great, but it's amusing that they take so much care with the portion sizes.. But it's always sufficient. a new favourite of mine

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By Andy - Jun 18 2011
1/5

I spent a month looking forward to dinner at Chez Bruce.
Upon arrival we were tucked away behind a mirrored pillar where I was destined to spend the rest of the evening catching glimpses of my own disappointed reflection.
25 minutes before we got a glass of wine on the table from a sommelier who told me the Amarone was 'very fruity' and was unable to elaborate further.
Very good warm pigeon salad to start and very average venison to follow (£5 surcharge), dessert of reasonable tart.
Largely ignored by staff who saw fit to faun over a rather loud American couple behind us.
Cheese board looked exceptional but I had lost my temper by this point in proceedings. For the only time in my life I refused to pay service as there had been none. Expressed my displeasure to a manager whose offer of 'a better experience' on our next visit I have so far declined.
There are many better places to eat that are far more convenient to get to. I hope your experience is less excrutiating than mine.

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