Clarke's

Clarke's can appear rather starchy to outsiders: partly because locals in this chichi district of Kensington naturally don a jacket for dinner, and partly because the maître d' sometimes has a demanding demeanour that dissuades you from feeling entirely relaxed. It's perhaps not what chef-proprietor Sally Clarke would hope for, as she seemed entirely at ease popping out of the kitchen to fetch items from the bar, or sitting and chatting with familiar faces. The dining room is small, the tables enrobed with heavy linen tablecloths.

The menu changes daily and is short and contained, with just four main courses - though this represents a progression from the original 'no choice' dinner menu of the 1980s. Dishes display a modern British leaning with a European flourish; the Jersey royals are served with aïoli, for instance. Own-made breads are a highlight. Pomegranate, chilli and mint glaze gave Aylesbury duck a delightful crispness, but the spice was unannounced. Another main, grilled veal chop, was ample, lean and tender. Dessert of 'dark chocolate soufflé cake' turned out to be a brownie in all but name: delicious nonetheless. Yet although the cooking roused the senses on our visit, it didn't lighten the atmosphere.