Gallipoli Again

Come on Saturday night to witness this place in full swing, behind the enticing window display of dolmas and baklava. There's a queue for tables. Cynics might put the attraction down to the reasonable prices and infectious party atmosphere. Packed to the rafters, the long, narrow terracotta-painted restaurant has a rosy glow and a throbbing beat, occasionally interrupted by an electronic rendition of 'Happy Birthday'. OK, one of the day's specials was lasagne, but another was chicken begendi in coriander sauce with smoked aubergine and garlic, and there are bowls of olives ready and waiting on the tables. Falafels were commendably crisp; köfte tender; and broad beans in yoghurt, parsley and red pepper pleasing. Houmous was above average too. On the debit side, börek were stodgy, and the kitchen didn't bother to barbecue the bread. The special kebab is a meat feast that's unnecessary after several meze, but plenty for two. Staff in silver monogrammed black shirts show grace under extreme pressure and the atmosphere is great. You might not get comfort - it's a squash - or consistently tip-top cooking, but Gallipoli Again's popularity seems justified.