Bistrotheque

Hidden in an unlikely location down a gritty Hackney side street, Bistrotheque has become a key player on the east London after-dark scene. This is largely because of the cabaret shows that take place side by side with the restaurant; the three-in-one venue also has a bar downstairs, and dinner and show packages are popular. The airy first-floor restaurant sports an industrial-chic look, with whitewashed brick walls, bell jar-like light fixtures and steel beams that hint of its former incarnation as a warehouse.

The menu draws elements from France and Britain - typical dishes include trout with samphire and Jersey royals; rock oysters; steak tartare; and ribeye with stilton. A smoked trout salad was lifted with refreshing fennel and a chipotle-spiked dressing, though both a cauliflower soup starter and a rabbit confit main were perfectly fine but unremarkable in their simplicity. Desserts, on the other hand, benefited from a lack of fussiness - roast peaches with thyme-scented mascarpone were ambrosial, while brownie-like chocolate cake didn't disappoint in its decadence, the richness cut with tart raspberries.

Service from the trendily coiffed staff was perfunctory and disengaged; perhaps there's a warmer atmosphere during weekend brunches, which are accompanied by a pianist and singing.