La Collina

La Collina has had a change of ownership, but outwardly continues as it was: a well-established local with its particular strengths to be found in pasta, fish and the warm welcome. Quality has always been sound, with a commitment to traditional Italian cooking, and prices are reasonable.

Our starters of vitello tonnato (cold veal loin with tuna mayonnaise) and grilled calamares were done properly, and salt cod cooked in milk and garlic was ample and tasty. Mains were uniformly outstanding: simply and perfectly roasted sea bream, served with sublime sauté potatoes; spaghetti all'astice (with half a lobster and loads of flavourful tomato sauce); and a mixed grill of precisely cooked fish and shellfish that came with just a salad (which was all it needed).

The wine list starts with high-quality Sicilians under £20. Our one dessert suggested that puddings aren't a strong point, but cheese is an alternative. The cooking sometimes lacks fine-tuning, in seasoning and dressing, but nothing to get upset about. If there's a problem here, it's in the physical space: ground floor and back garden wonderful, basement room a little cramped. All the more reason to book well in advance and bag a table in a prime position.