Roux at The Landau

The kitchen at this sumptuous venue is overseen by Albert and Michel Roux Jr, and run by head chef Chris King. It couldn't feel less like a hotel restaurant, with its impressive high ceiling, extensive wood panelling, pastel-coloured palette, and expansive curved bay window.

Cooking, although based on classic French techniques, also celebrates Mediterranean and Middle Eastern flavours with flair. Creamy salt cod brandade made a tasty partner to squid rings fried in inky-hued tempura batter. Equally memorable, courgette strips, anointed with olive oil and scattered with toasted pine nuts and raisins, were given an aromatic flourish with chickpea fritters seasoned with Middle Eastern spices.

Mains were just as creative. Our favourite: plump lamb cutlets, juicy and meltingly tender, partnered by slow-simmered cracked wheat, finished with shredded green olives and marjoram. Simple, yet so tasty, was chorizo-filled rabbit leg served with auburn-hued saffron rice, which shone with an unashamedly bold Spanish character.

Desserts were impeccable. Especially notable: a warm, fragrant apricot soufflé, flecked with diced fruit and served with pistachio ice-cream.

Service, like the cooking, was hard to fault. Expect big-budget expenditure for choices from the carte; set menus provide more affordable options matched with moderately priced wines.