Locanda Locatelli

The decor, with its frosted glass curtains and mirrors, may strike some as more Miami Beach than West End, but at night Giorgio Locatelli's dining room is cosy and warm, and a fitting setting for some of London's best Italian food.

Our meal this year was flawless from beginning (a groaning bread basket and deeply pungent extra virgin olive oil) to end (exquisite petits fours). Starters: sardines 'en saor' (with sultanas and pine nuts), and creamy salt cod with gorgeous cherry tomatoes and paper-thin polenta crisps. Mains: own-made strozzapreti (rolled pasta) with a rich tomato sauce featuring spicy 'nduja sausage, olives and heavenly ricotta; and chargrilled lamb with minted peas and crushed potato. Mind you, at nearly £30, the lamb could have been more generously portioned. For dessert, a diminutive pair of lovely cannoli was served with strawberries and pistachio ice-cream.

The wine list is an encyclopaedia of classic Italy and lesser-known treasures, and includes some bottles under or around £30. The downer was in the service: assertive refilling of wine glasses even after we had asked to do the pouring ourselves, and a long wait for a requested VAT receipt. However, those are minor quibbles. Locatelli maintains high standards year after year.