Magdalen

The atmosphere at Magdalen is low-key and quite romantic, with tea lights flickering on white-clothed tables and classical music playing quietly. The small bar area and simple dining room epitomise discreet sophistication; it's as though the big guns have been saved for the menu. What this short, frequently changing carte lacks in length, it makes up for in creativity. Ingredients are chosen with evident care and treated with respect, neither too fussily nor too plainly.

The kitchen certainly knows how to pair flavours. A simple fried duck egg was offset beautifully by smoked anchovies. Silky-smooth chilled fennel soup spiked with Pernod sang with Provençal flavours, and a generous portion of wild salmon served on Alsace-style choucroute was cooked to pink translucence. For afters, there's a selection of cheeses from Neal's Yard and from an affineur in France; or, for sweet-lovers, classics such as pear and almond tart or caramelised rice pudding.

The wine list focuses on France, with some good bottles from the wider Continent and the New World, and there's a decent by-the-glass selection. Service was friendly and suitably unfussy. Magdalen is excellent value at dinner and the set lunch is more of a bargain.