Matsuba

Korean-run Matsuba is as pretty as a box of luxury chocolates - all dark wood and subtle light panels running along the length of the room, with vintage Japanese parasols and smartly turned-out waiters with quiet dispositions. It's an attractive option for locals (mostly non-oriental, affluent couples and families), not least because of the decent wine list. The menu is a melange of Japanese and Korean dishes, with a strong section on sashimi and sushi; itamae chefs can be seen working in deep concentration in the small sushi bar. Gems include dobin mushi, a clear soup traditionally served in a small clay teapot, with a small piece of lime to add a sour note. It wasn't as intensely flavoured as it should be, but commendable nonetheless. Scallops seared in butter were nutty, creamy and sweet, served in a seashell. Korean maeung tang (a spicy seafood broth) lacked the expected rich umami flavour, but had an exciting chilli kick and plenty of firm, flaky white fish and mussels. There are no real duds here, though we experienced a long wait between starters and mains. Judging by the number of people turned away at the door on the night we visited, it's worth booking.