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A quick lunch suggested that this Gordon Ramsay satellite could use a bit of sprucing up. The room remains the same long, low-slung, split-level space, with decoration unchanged since opening, and the bar still features imaginative (and hugely expensive) cocktails.
But the food, though good, just lacked sparkle. There are several options for ordering, of which the most affordable by far is a fixed-price menu of small dishes served at lunch and early evening. That's what we ate, with mixed results.
Chilled pea soup with shreds of ham hock and a pea salad was perfectly pleasant, yet not exceptional. An ingenious assembly of marinated beetroot, goat's curd and pine nuts was very tasty but a little too fiddly. The star of the show was salmon served with leek fondue and delectable brown shrimps, dressed with a vinaigrette and horseradish foam - perfectly roasted salmon, well-judged accompaniments. The dish showed that there's talent in the kitchen.
Maze was packed on our visit, and always is, according to our waiter. Service was careful and exceptionally friendly. Standard quibble: a pricey wine list, with very little under £40. If and when this pioneering restaurant regains its ability to dazzle and astonish, the wine prices will seem more acceptable. Amusement for geeks: the wine list is presented on an iPad.
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What is 'following'?020 7107 0000
Lunch served noon-2.30pm, dinner served 6-10.30pm daily
Main courses £10-£30. Set meal (lunch daily; 6-7pm, 10-11pm Mon-Thur, Sun) £25 3 dishes (£45 incl wine), £36 4 dishes (£56 incl wine).
Credit cards AmEx, MC, V
Facilities
Babies and children welcome ( high chairs ), Booking essential, Separate rooms for parties ( seating 8, 10 and 40 ), Available for hire, Disabled ( toilet ), Dress ( smart casual; no trainers )We had an absolutely awful Christmas Eve dinner here in 2011. The appetizers were fried and tasteless, and except for the roast turkey, which was very tender, the entire meal was lackluster and forgettable. We'd eaten the night before at Le Petit Masion just down the block which was wonderful, but were terribly disappointed with Maze.
We celebrate my wife's 40th birthday at Maze; poor choice.
I don’t mind restaurants being pretentious, serving small dishes for outrageous amounts…however the food was down right disastrous – I am not sure it's the best way to describe it – maybe disgusting works better.
What surprises me time and again is people ability to lie and convince themselves that this is a decent restaurant.
If you want a good eat out experience better go to Hakasan ….
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