National Dining Rooms

Here you'll find art-lovers and fans of the Peyton & Byrne bakeries. Both sets of enthusiasts are glad that the adjoining restaurant is committed to using the best seasonal British produce, which the kitchen handles with confidence.

The lofty space is part-gentlemen's club (green leather chairs, studded banquettes), part-gallery (a huge Paula Rego mural dominates). Service on our visit was friendly, if a little too relaxed (staff assumed we wanted a 'bakery' rather than restaurant lunch, and we had a long wait before plates were cleared), but there was no denying the quality of the food.

Baby courgettes in a fairy-light tempura batter, with their flowers stuffed with creamy blue cheese, made a great starter. Mains were just as impressive: a substantial Cornish plaice was served with fresh samphire and peas; and toothsome Bickfield beef came with heritage tomatoes, broccoli and courgettes in a moreish meaty gravy.

Traditionalists love the desserts of fruit crumble, treacle tart and strawberry parfait, and the drinks list offers several wines by the glass. On one of the hottest days of summer, the only conceivable drink was a deliciously cool and delicately flowery glass of Provençal rosé.