Plateau

Stepping out of the lift at Plateau's fourth-floor location, it was immediately apparent that many of the well-dressed diners hailed from local Canary Wharf offices (though couples out for an intimate meal also eat here). The expansive restaurant sits just beyond an informal bar area, where music plays and the menu is less exalted (fish and chips, say). Both areas are glass-clad, reflecting the Wharf's skyscrapers back at you. The high-design interior is all gleaming steel lamps, white chairs and grey marble-topped tables.

Our meal began with a simple but perfectly balanced buffalo mozzarella, pickled beetroot and rocket salad. To follow, slow-cooked pork belly with crisp crackling was accompanied by an inspired baby squid salad. Dessert, a buttery bourbon vanilla cream with strawberries, came with a sprinkling of unadvertised pistachio nuts (allergy sufferers, beware).

Ingredients are clearly of a high quality, but provenance isn't mentioned on the menu. When questioned about our Portuguese wine (from an extensive list), the sommelier could only tell us that it was part of a promotion. Service was otherwise unfalteringly pleasant and efficient, but come here for the food rather than the atmosphere.