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From the moment we arrived at the Rex Whistler, the service was exemplary: our bags whisked into the cloakroom, a table found outside in the sunshine, a choice of five breads proffered.
The menu is all about big flavours - and largely about meat. From the carte, an appetiser of pork crackling would barely yield to the bite, and beef carpaccio lacked flavour (or a notable contribution from the advertised truffle oil), although it came with a feisty celeriac remoulade. However, smoked eel with crispy bacon and two slashes of sweet beetroot sauce (intensified by soy and balsamic vinegar) was both pretty and tasty; and fish of the day - a whole fresh cod, on the bone - was well cooked and beautifully fresh, even if the trimmings of fine diced onion, capers and lemon added little.
Set lunch options didn't immediately grab us, but are nicely priced, with a neat by-the-glass system (one £3.75, two £7.25, three £10.50) that encourages you to match wine from the excellent list to each course. The smart, single-room interior gives you a chance to digest Mr Whistler's intriguing 1926-27 mural that encircles the walls.
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What is 'following'?Rex Whistler Restaurant at Tate Britain
Tate Britain, Millbank SW1P 4RGTransport Pimlico tube or bus 87
020 7887 8825
Breakfast served 10-11.30am Sat, Sun. Lunch served 11.30am-3pm, tea served 3.15-5pm daily
Main courses £13.25-£18.50. Set lunch £16.50 2 courses, £20.50 3 courses
Credit cards AmEx, DC, MC, V
Facilities
Tables outdoors ( 8, terrace ), Babies and children welcome ( high chairs ), Booking advisable, Disabled ( lift; toilet )
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