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Badly damaged by fire in 2009, the Sea Shell has finally risen phoenix-like in a somewhat glossier incarnation, complete with gleaming brass, chequered marble floor and backlit aquarium (a magnet for children). The latter must be proving a challenge, as the brown banquettes around which the fish tank wraps are also the seating of choice for dating couples, but then, that's the Sea Shell - popular with everyone.
Service has cranked up a notch since our last visit, our waiter knowledgeably talking about the wines, and the pros and cons of screw-cap bottles. The menu, more extensive and varied than most chippies, remains much the same.
Start maybe with prawn cocktail or chargrilled halloumi. There's a large choice of sides including broccoli with chilli and garlic, and jacket potatoes with soured cream, plus steaks for fish-fearers. A decision to opt for Japanese panko crumbs on our deep-fried haddock was well rewarded. The chips, fried in groundnut oil, taste much better than they look, and the tartare sauce is surely London's best.
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What is 'following'?020 7224 9000
Lunch served noon-2.30pm, dinner served 5-10.30pm Mon-Fri. Meals served noon-10.30pm Sat
Main courses £12-£30
Credit cards AmEx, DC, MC, V
Facilities
Tables outdoors ( 8, pavement ), Babies and children welcome ( children's menu; high chairs ), Booking advisable ( Thur-Sat ), Disabled ( toilet ), Takeaway service
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