Umu

In mid 2009, the executive chef at Umu changed and the menu did too. There are now more fusion dishes and, due to the earthquake of March 2011, fewer Japanese ingredients. The interior and ambience, however, remain constant: dramatic dark wood features, low lighting and well-to-do diners.

Although the tasting menu has shot up in price, it still makes a wise choice if you're after the full Umu experience. Highlights included a skilfully constructed starter of cured arctic char with slivers of fried artichoke, trout roe and delicate shiso flowers, and an innovative dessert of light, tangy tomato mousse with own-made shichimi chilli powder. Less successful was the ochazuke, which saw hot green-tea stock combined with cold sea bass sashimi, resulting in an odd temperature and texture.

Our à la carte choices were a mixed bag: foie gras mousse with crab and dashi jelly was a triumph, while the 'modern sushi' seemed confused. From the ample drinks menu, we enjoyed two unusual options: sparkling saké and sesame shochu.

Service can be a little clinical, but on our last visit the waiter was charming and informative. The dining experience here is worth trying, just be prepared for a hefty bill.