Wells

A very Hampstead version of the modern pub, a short stroll from the Heath. Upstairs, the Wells' main dining areas feel like a proper restaurant, with distinctive, delicate furnishings - slightly Indian colours in one room, lighter shades and Chinese porcelain in another. The result is a relaxing and potentially romantic setting for a meal. The mostly British-European menus are strong on classic steaks, but also include such pub standards as cumberland sausages and mash, and more subtle options like a fine sea bass with broad beans, chilli sauce and chorizo. There's nothing unusually innovative here, and menus could pay more attention to the seasons (a winter list was peculiarly heavy on salads), but dishes are nicely executed, with refined flavours. Hefty beef and chicken roasts are served for Sunday lunch, and the same menus (plus a few snacks) are also available in the ground-floor bar. Here, original features of the old Georgian inn are combined with elegant modern seating ideally suited to a clientele that has internalised the concepts of smart and casual. Packed at weekend lunchtimes, the bar is more peaceful during the week. There's not much choice for beer-drinkers, but the globally sourced wine list is serious business.