Green's

On paper, Green's is in danger of becoming a caricature of itself. Located in St James's, it is owned by Simon Parker Bowles, erstwhile brother-in-law of Camilla. Old-fashioned comfort food is served to portly gents in gold-buttoned blazers and their pearls-and-twin-set wives. In fact, it's much more appealing than this might sound. Yes, customers tend to be well-padded, well-heeled males, mobile phones are banned, the green-leather booths evoke a gentlemen's club, and staff (including women) wear absurd waistcoats and ties. But the atmosphere is convivial, the setting homely rather than stuck-up, and the food can be excellent. Fish and crustacea are the draw, although you'll also find some meat dishes. Smoked haddock Parker Bowles (the signature dish) featured a generous slab of perfectly cooked fish and creamy mash topped with a wobbly poached egg, while a huge plate of top-quality Scottish smoked salmon and scrambled eggs was an unadulterated delight. Colchester rock oysters were superb examples of the genre too. Don't expect fancy flavours or modern attitudes, and you'll be fine. The wine list isn't for the faint-hearted, and the whisky selection must be one of London's longest and best.