Murano

Angela Hartnett's flagship restaurant is a lovely, calm space, in tones of sage and cream, with both retro and modernist touches defying the venue's formality. An initial hush swiftly grows into a soft buzzas the evening progresses; well-versed staff glide along efficiently. These are sound enough reasons to dine here. Another would be the good-value set lunch, which doesn't stint on the adjuncts of simple, delectable nibbles, including outstanding salumi, high-quality breads and oil, a delightful painter's palette of post-main sorbets, fruit, and truffles even if you don't order coffee.

Wine by the glass comes in a small measure, but ours all delivered full flavours. Occasional identity crises persist, however, even in the relatively straightforward set menu. At times the 'panache' (to borrow Murano's own term) works fine, as in head chef Diego Cardoso's masterly sea bream ceviche, perfectly in balance. And the following crisp-skinned fillet of sea trout was nicely complemented by a sweet-tart tomato vinaigrette. Nevertheless, the accompanying aubergine parmigiana - neatly executed, undeniably delicious - was no foil for the soft-fleshed fish. Risotto and pasta are among the simple delights (but do they really warrant domed service?), and desserts are adroitly prepared and good to eat. In fairness, the overall experience is unlikely to disappoint.