Boundary

Boundary is one of three eateries in a Conran complex on ultra-fashionable Redchurch Street: the more casual Albion café and the summer Rooftop bar make up the trio and there's also a hotel, as evidenced by the glossy international crowd in this snazzy basement restaurant.

The interior decoration is a talking point. From the galley window on to the kitchen and the cartographic ceiling artwork twinkling with inlaid lights, to the art deco-style silverware and the skylight-illuminated booths upholstered in warm jewel tones, there's a lot going on here, but it's realised with impeccable taste. Staff tend to stand on ceremony (en route to our table we were greeted by every waiter and the sommelier), but aren't so starched as to be unwelcoming.

Classic selling points include extravagant seafood platters, rotisserie meats and charcuterie assembled with dramatic flourishes from tableside trolleys. A Sunday lunch of rôti chicken was presented unadorned, letting the high-quality main event speak for itself; the accompanying jug of tarragon sauce did little to enhance it. Pea and mint soup, with its concentrated, vibrant flavours, presented summer in a bowl.

Oenophiles will enjoy exploring the extensive wine list, which runs to 620 bins with several available by the glass. Peter Weeden (ex-Coq d'Argent) was appointed head chef as we went to press; tweaks are to be expected, though Boundary's gastronomic raison d'être is expected to remain constant.