Palace

Despite its regal name, this charming eaterie is rather home-style. With just a dozen or so tables, the place fills up quickly even midweek. Scores of diners huddle together and slurp up the larger-than-life jeongol stews. The manager is quite a character, with a sleeve full of recommendations. Don't order too much, as each portion left us in awe - a 'small' cod hotpot could have easily fed two, while the large version was shared by an entire table. Our fish was well timed, with juicy flakes of cod soaking up the rich kimchi-flavoured stew. A Korean-Chinese dish of ja jang myun (listed in both languages as a special on the wall, but not on the menu) was excellent, with springy noodles and a well-balanced sauce made from chunjang (a black soy-bean paste), pork and a crunchy shredded cucumber garnish. Beef rib soup was a stunner too, with a rich, almost milky broth that indicated hours of simmering. The restaurant might not be a palace in terms of decor - furniture is simple, specials are hand-written on A4 paper - but the quality of food and the accommodating service make it a right royal treat.