Gallery Mess

What to expect from the brasserie at the gallery of Charles Saatchi, arguably the most powerful man in contemporary art? Instances of the super-collector's taste are evident, as you'd hope (artworks are selected from web showcase Saatchi Online). A giant sculpted shoe clings to the back wall, and a gaping-mouthed neon nude kneels resplendent on all fours high above the tables, but there the outrageousness ends and the professionalism begins.

Gallery Mess - with its enviable Chelsea location, listed interior with vaulted ceiling, and terrace overlooking Duke of York Square - is a grown-up operation, every bit as slick and assured as Saatchi's meteoric career. Clientele are a fairly mixed group, from out-there art appreciators to the conservative gentlefolk of SW3. Thankfully, staff are courteous regardless.

The seasonal menu offers light, well-balanced dishes, seeing the day through from breakfast to late supper. Chicken breast with quinoa and pomegranate salad was fresh and sparky; south-coast fish in a bag came with a bird's nest of potato strips and a tangle of potato fries, served on a newspaper-print square of paper. Such dishes are artfully presented (of course), but there's substance to this style: a new 'sensation', perhaps.