Lutyens

Lutyens is classic Conran: not just a 130-seat restaurant, but a handsome bar, a members' club, four private dining rooms, and menus with seafood to the fore. What's more, it's in a historic building, designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens and the former home of Reuters - look at the gorgeous Lutyens-designed postbox-clock at the entrance.

In the bar, a slimmed down menu lists the likes of crab salad and (excellent) steak tartare with chips and salad, or tapas, cheese or charcuterie boards to share. The roomy, light restaurant beyond gently references the 1930s, and is a pleasant space in which to knock back half a dozen rock oysters (spéciale de claire) and deliciously rich if slightly sinewy roast wood pigeon with seared foie gras.

It's all quite pricey, which makes the menu compris a bargain: £39.50 buys a half bottle of wine, three courses plus coffee and petits fours. Of this, only the biscuity petits fours and bitter coffee disappointed; otherwise, soufflé suisse (twice-baked cheese), ribeye steak with bone marrow sauce, and summer fruits with lemon verbena and basil ice-cream were all impeccable. Best, however, was raspberry mojito granita, from the main menu - a chilly, fruity eye-opener of a dessert.