Scott's

Celebrity hangout du jour, Scott's is currently eclipsing the Ivy as London's pre-eminent see-and-be-seen spot. Occupying a distinguished building in the heart of Mayfair, this bustling seafood favourite is convenient for guests at the Connaught or Dorchester, and indeed oozes something of those hotels' upmarket exclusivity.

It's polished and pristine, with a handsome mosaic floor, but above all, discreet - mobiles are politely ushered away and staff are attentive. The high-ceilinged dining room is centred around a marble-topped oyster bar, and noise levels can rise, mainly because the restaurant is so popular (you'll find it busy late into a Monday night). Like at others in the well-bred Caprice group, you have a good idea of what to expect: innovation takes a backseat to reliability.

The menu is shorter than at sister restaurant J Sheekey, but when the seasonality is this good, there's much to appreciate. With head chef Dave McCarthy at the helm, you can be assured of sublime roasted shellfish platters to share and cleverly judged mains, such as the cod fillet confidently paired with padrón peppers and chorizo. Portions are a good size, with sides reasonably priced, although our tender-stem broccoli verged on undercooked. Ties aren't required, but clientele look the part nonetheless.