Hala

Linger a little at this Turkish café-restaurant and takeaway and it will appear that Hala - meaning 'Aunt' - is a fitting name. The easy warmth, unhurried atmosphere and free tea at the end of the meal make it feel rather like hanging out in a family kitchen.

The rectangular space, hung with 'evil eye' ornaments and kilim, is heavy on the wood, with cool stone floors that recall hotter climes than Harringay. At the takeaway counter area, the overarching brownness is interrupted by metal panelling and a yellow wall menu.

Staff may be predominantly male, but (as befits the name) it's the two ladies at their windowside work station who most intrigue as they manipulate dough into gözleme (filled pancakes) and tiny mantı. The latter - springy, beef-filled pasta nuggets - may not represent the high point of Turkish cuisine, but think of them rather as comforting nursery food. Mantı is one of two Hala specialities; the other, íçli köfte, is also recommended.

The usual range of grilled meat, fish and kebabs are present, and our meze starters were flawless, particularly the lamb's liver, its richness tempered by a sprinkle of chilli and plentiful parsley and onion.