Wright Brothers Oyster & Porter House

Wright Brothers is very much an eat-and-run sort of place, with all seating at high-backed stools, and efficient waitresses operating at speed despite the cramped conditions. But the fast turnover suits busy office workers, and the quality of the seafood means diners are prepared to perch.

The menu is written on blackboards above the bar, and always lists several oyster combinations. This time we tried oysters Japanese-style, with wasabi, ginger and soy - pretty as a picture and punchily flavoured. Next, grilled plaice with brown butter and new potatoes was a fine piece of fish, cooked just so; sea trout with cucumber, brown shrimps and more new potatoes also lit up the taste buds. Tomato and shallot side salad made a refreshing counterpoint. A limited choice of afters (crème brûlée, cheese plate) is offered, alongside excellent coffee.

Sunday brunch brings the likes of smoked haddock kedgeree, and scrambled eggs with Hederman's organic smoked salmon. The wine list has plenty of choice, with riesling prominent on our visit. There's a cosy atmosphere in winter; in summer, grab a table near the open entrance, looking on to Borough Market. A branch in Soho is planned.