Faanoos II

Not everyone wants to find the restaurateur dining with friends at one of his own tables, but in homely Iranian eateries it's a mark of distinction. Nor was he alone: this new sister restaurant to the Sheen original was buzzing with couples and families even on a quiet weeknight. Perhaps the attraction is the warmth of the interior, lent a rural aesthetic by the straw matted walls, decorative brick arches and countless ornamental lamps (faanoos in Farsi). Perhaps it's the warmth of the brick oven, a turquoise-tiled beast turning out note-perfect taftoon bread by the big windows. Or perhaps it's the warmth of the welcome from the attentive Iranian staff, whose only fault was to wheel out main courses before we were halfway through our starters - a so-so mix of salads, dips and bitter Persian pickles. Not that we could complain: the cook had kindly catered to our cravings by rustling up a dish that wasn't technically on the menu, adding aubergine to a lamb, lentil and dried lime stew to make khoresht-e gheimeh bademjan, packed with meat and a touch too much turmeric. Marinated chicken joojeh and seasoned minced lamb koobideh kebabs were succulent and served alongside a soft heap of saffron-tinted rice. Not even a bottle of wine, pot of tea or plate of sugary Persian sweets was able to push the bill over £40, making this a worthy addition to an area not renowed for its cheap eats.