Koffmann's

The return of Pierre Koffmann, one of the best chefs of his generation, guaranteed a procession of chefs and gourmets through the doors when this restaurant - a brasserie dedicated to the cooking of Koffmann's native Gascony - opened in 2010.

Things have since settled into a smooth groove, with front of house managed by the charming Eric Garnier and Clare Harrison (Koffmann's partner), whose warm personality always wins us over. The Berkeley's basement dining room feels more formal than a brasserie, with textured wallpaper and shades of cream and olive green.

Many diners come here to experience the creations first made famous at Koffmann's old restaurant, La Tante Claire - and the pig's trotter stuffed with chicken mousse and morels will not disappoint. An extensive regional French wine list provides back-up.

We decided on the good-value lunch menu. First up, a beautifully rich and smooth liver parfait with toasted Poilâne bread. The French know how to cook a roast chicken, and Koffmann's version, with the leg paired with gratin potatoes and girolles, is terrific. It's also heartening not to be charged extra for vegetables served with the main courses. The humble spud, especially, is treated with respect, with a different variety arriving each day; the chips are irresistible. We deviated into the carte at the end for pistachio soufflé, which ensured we left fully content.